San Francisco’s Fillmore District—known as the “Harlem of the West” in the 1940s and ’50s—was once a cathedral of Jazz, its dozens of clubs inhabited by celestial beings such as John Coltrane, Miles Davis, Billie Holiday, and Charlie Parker. Its heyday marked an important chapter not only in Jazz history but also in the Black American experience; its legacy lives on in the work of passionate artists who believe Jazz—its freedom, movement, and expression—is a state of mind, a way of life.

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